Memorable Brunello Wine Tasting

...second day in Montalcino could not feature a visit to a Brunello winery and tasting just a shot from Montalcino on its south-west slope...We were guests of Laura Grey at Il Palazzone who introduced us to the magical world of "sangiovese in purezza", i.e. Brunello wine. 

Laura welcomed us at the entrance of the farm and started narrating of her family’story with Richard Parsons, the winery's owner. They were dealing the restaurant Il Leccio in Sant’Angelo al Colle ,where Mr Parsons used to be client. One day, as he had purchased the Palazzone proprerty, he proposed Laura and her husband Marco to move to the premise and manage it. After 12 years, the family has grown up not only in number of children, with 3 of them now , but also in vintages.

 We walked around vineyards, till we reached for a small olive grove, where Laura instroduced us to “Club 100” project where individuals select an olive tree and receive an annual harvest of oil. As a member of Club 100, you are helping to insure the long-term viability of a small, traditional farm, preserving an agricultural heritage that dates back for centuries. Plaques bearing your name will be hand-painted by a Montalcino artist…and there we are, I booked a Wishversilia olive-tree ownership!
If you are interested in the project, read on http://www.ilpalazzone.com/olive-oil/  and contact Laura.

At last, Laura led us to the new cellar building, where the architect took inspiration by country churches and its simple shapes, sloping roofs and perfect integration with the surroundings. We stepped inside this majestic building as if we where entering a religious cloister. 

In fact, the temperature and micro climate is naturally preserved inside the aging cellar and visitors are requested  a “respectful” attitude to avoid noises, too much light in opening/shutting the door, wearing strong perfumes…Brunello needs a quite sleep for at least 3 years...

The best part had to come, when we finally got to the tasting room and Laura uncorked 2006 and 2007 Brunello bottles. Now I understand the delicate balance preserved in barrels and sought after with so much efforts...Nectar of the Gods!

Recommended

When we got back home, I cheered up with friends with the best pairing possible with Brunello: beef tagliata and fettunta (bread and extra vergin olive oil)!

On the way back from Palazzone, we reached for St Antimo Abbey and drove all the way to Sant’Angelo al Colle through a white road where the most famous wineries and Brunello producers are lined up and visitable.

We were late to attend the Gregorian choir singing in the Abbey, but I wish to be back to listen in such elating venue.

In Sant'Angelo al Colle I finally met with Katja (MapitoutTuscany) and could enjoy an apero time by the church steps at sunset.

 

Our dinner at Il Leccio was very nice, not only for food, but also for the enchanting view and the welcoming atmosphere of this small borough.

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Tuscany summer tour 2012 - day 2

This post is the second day of our Tuscany Tour 2012, an intense journey, full of beauty, taste and history, but also of new friends!

I am sharing the experience with Katja Mejer, writer of  the blog Mapitout Tuscany. She was totally inspiring and addressed me to typical places and to meet people who are crucial for the knowledge of this area.

 The first day of my tour with Montalcino guided tour  is available on MapitoutTuscany_Montalcino.
If you enjoyed it, you will find below the second day experience, driving south to Monte Antico borough and the village of Campagntico... 

Day 2

While our friends were enjoying sightseeing in Pienza, we made our way southward to Grossetto for some inspections on villas and venues. The first one we were recommended by Katja was Art&Garden in MonteAntico, about 20km from Montalcino in the outstretches of Maremma. This places is magical…a tiny ancient borough in a gorgeous position on top of a hill. You approach the old church as if you were entering a convent, when you realize that the façade is just the entrance of a theatre! The past owner welcome young artists and performers from all over Europe to come here and have a space to share experiences and art works. In the last years it has been elected perfect retreat for detox and yoga workshops.  Elida, the manager welcome us and showed the venue, while our kids were sleeping in the car and in the buggy. We hoped we could spend more time there to relax and enjoy some noise-free time.

 The second inspection was planned at Villa Bellaria in Campagnatico. This villa provides self-catering apartments as well as B&B accommodation. The former are comfortable, country apartments merged in the villa’s beautiful park, the latter a cosy romantic deluxe rooms located in the main villa.

What struck me most was the huge bird cage, full of colorful little parrots, which dropped us back to the past of Rococò noble villas in XVIIIth century and the large meadow overlooking the slope rolling down from Campagnatico seaward.

Also, one of the highlights of villa Bellaria is that it is located right in the centre of Campagnatico, a very charming village, where we enjoyed a delicious meal at restaurant La locanda del Glicine. Organic food was fresh and Km zero, i.e. from the owner’s garden. The service accurate and refined: see the bread basket and complimentary coffee treats

  

After a delicious lunch, we drove back to Montalcino where we had planned to meet Laura Gray at Palazzone winery. Our day was not yet finished and we still had to enjoy Brunello wine tasting and a panoramic dinner at Sant’Angelo al Colle.

 TO BE CONTINUED…

Foody Montalcino!

First of all, make sure you drop an eye into each shop or restaurant  or even an old pharmacy along the main street in Montalcino and you will find everywhere a view open on the breathtaking panorama of rolling hills surrounding the Via Cassia.

When visiting Montalcino area, most people just have a short walk around the small historical town and its fortress and then head to wineries for precious Brunello tasting. Of course, this is a highlight of the place, nevertheless I was pleasantly introduced by Teresa, our guide, to some renown places and habits in Montalcino that you cannot really miss!

After a while you will be captured by the sweet smell of almonds and sugar of the traditional Sienese cakes and biscuits: ricciarelli, pan pepato, panforte. Fresh baked ones offer incomparable tastes with respect to those industrially produced. A stop at Mariuccia’s pastries is a must!

For greedy palates here is another wonderful treat, which is the king of sweets in Montalcino, i.e. Cioccolatoni dessert, chocolate fudge in different flavors, served chilled. Yummy! 

After enjoying some snacks as aperitif, we had soon to stop for a visit inside the Fiaschetteria Italiana, one of the oldest cafes in Italy.

If you are tired of walking and wish a bit of rest, Teresa suggested us a weird but yet very characteristic place to sit for a while and have a chat with locals: the Butcher’s. In front of big pieces of meat and different recipes from stuffed beef to polpette and the chianina steaks, you will enjoy the rustic atmosphere of the place.

After walking all through the historical centre, reach for the Montalcino fortress and its wine bar where you can still access to ramparts and the sentinel’walk.

At last, after such “stressful” day, toast with Brunello wine at sunset! Cheers!

Candle light tour in Pisa for the Luminara night

Luminara 2011

As every year on June 16th Pisa renews the tradition of the Luminara of San Ranieri, within the celebration of the "Pisan June", the most eventful month of the year in Pisa. This year the festivity falls on Saturday and you may exptect thousands people from all over Tuscany and abroad to overflow into the streets at sunset, yet before the show starts. 

The Luminara consists in seventy-thousand candles, set in glasses and fixed in wooden white frames, placed on the outline of the buildings, bridges, churches and towers along the Arno river. The Leaning Tower with its surrounding area is illuminated with oil lamps set in the city walls of the Holy Field.
I am lucky becasue, thanks to some close friends of mine living on the Lungarno, I am able to assist to this wonderful display from an exclusive position. Unfortunately, there are not many possibilities to access to private venues, unless you are invited...Even the Town Hall overlooking on the left site quay cannot be accessed by the public. For those of you wishing to live this event from a provileged point of view, I suggest to book, very well in advance, a room at Hotel Royal Victoria.
During the whole night the city center is enliven by several celebrations, music and different events and it ends with the suggestive fireworks.
The most attractive and packed fulcrum of the event is around Piazza delle Vettovaglie and Borgo Stretto. Here you will be able to taste some very typical recipes, such as panzanella, veggy quiche, focaccia con Toscano ham  and flows of wine and beer...indeed, if you are not too keen on crowd, stay away from that area...I'd suggest booking a table at the Pizzeria Vecchio Dado, which is right close to Piazza Garibaldi, where you will have more space to move and maybe queue a while for a gelato at Bottega del Gelato. Pisa will be totally switched off in the central area and you will not find it easy to orientate. 
If you need some help to arrange your visit, you can call on Wishversilia. We will be able to provide the best choice according to your requirements. For instance, kids are very welcome to enjoy the Luminara, but do consider a few hints before going. They will find many nice fluorescent toys on their way and loads of sweets. I suggest to stay in Piazza Dante, in front of the Sapienza Faculty, or Via Santa Maria and stretch to the Lungarni area to watch fireworks by 11pm.
If you are travelling by car, you can park for free in the area of the Stadium, but remember they are shutting down at 12pm or you can choose one of the private parkings in the Central Station area. In bothe cases, you will need to make a short walk to reach for the Lungarni.
Enjoy your candle light tour in Pisa!

“Joust of Saracino” in Arezzo 22-23 June 2012

Most people know the Palio in Siena as the most famous historical parade and contest in Tuscany, but less people know the “Joust of Saracino” is a chivalrous game originating in the medieval times and recalling the secular struggle of the occidental Christianity to hold back the Muslims. 

The joust is held in Arezzo in the beautiful Piazza Grande during the penultimate Saturday of June and the first Sunday in September. The joust is the evolution of a military exercise simulating a battle. A knight armed with a lance will face the Buratto King of India, having the appearance of the stereotyped enemy as he appeared to the occidental Christian: the Arab, the unfaithful, the Saracino; against him eight ”champions” from the four quarters that originally divided the city: the Porta Crucifera quarter, Porta S. Spirito quarter, the Porter del Foro quarter and the Porta S. Andrea quarter.

The Saracino holds a shield on his left arm with a sign which the others should try to hit with the lance and he will have to defend himself with a scourge in the right hand constructed with three leather balls each with the weight of 250 gram. When he’s hit, the Saracino turn around and try to hit the knight on the shoulder.

Historical Parade in Piazza Grande

The winning couple is the one who manage to collect the largest number of points hitting Saracino’s shield and the prize, "Lancia d'Oro" (the Golden Lance), goes to their quarter. If two quarters would gather the same points they will have to play again. Who’s going to win is uncertain up until the last minute and the game contains many turning points depending of the ability, the bravery and the luck of who’s involved in the joust in the Piazza Grande. The opening of the event take place in the morning with the reading of the announcement by Araldo followed by the multicoloured historic procession passing along the streets of the city and represented by 350 people dressed with fourteenth century clothing and 27 horses; the most important moment of the procession is the benediction of the participants on the stairs of the Dome by the bishop of Arezzo. The joust is opened by the flag-wavers, and then the procession enters accompanied by the applause of the public. Musicians from the “Gruppo Musici” will play on their drums and their instruments during the whole event. The musicians don’t use sheet music but play by ear and learn by heart memorizing the pieces and they are much appreciated not only in Italy but also abroad. 
(Courtesy of Toscana & Chianti News for the description of the event.

Noble Palace overlooking the main Square

Here, as in Siena, you can buy tickets to assist to the event in the square or outside the crowd in the noble buildings overlooking onto it. Wonderful apartments welcome tourists and travellers to have a magical view from above.

This allows this event to be attended by families or elderly people who do not like being in the crowd, without commodities for a few hours.

Moreover, each quarter is arranging historical dinners which takes places in the outings of the historical centre.

I highly recommend this event as a minor one, but yet very exciting and compelling. You'll be back in time and have the chance to visit one of the most beautiful towns in Tuscany. Arezzo, in fact, is very famous to locals for its antiques market, yet superior to the one in Lucca. Moreover, who can forget about the Prada outlet just outside town? 

For more info and suggestions, contact us info@wishversilia.it

Back to Five Lands!

Cinque Terre are back!

Last week I was finally back to Cinque Terre to have a look at works in progress. The people here are making a great job, restoring Vernazza and Monterosso at high speed to be ready for the season. We first stopped in Monterosso, where you can still see how furious was the flood. Before taking our train to Riomaggiore, the first village, we had a wine tasting at Sassarini Winery. This is the biggest winery in Cinque Terre, producing a few different selections of native white, red and Sciacchetrà wines. The latter is very typical of the area and you will not find any other place in Italy where tasting it. It is a delicious, sugary wine made with white grapes dried for about 7 weeks and then pressed and kept in inox vask. 

This is a quite unusual process for sweet wines, such as Vin Santo, that are usually aged in wood casks. Dont' miss a shot  of Sciacchetrà in your next trip to Cinque Terre. True delight!

You can have a wine tasting along with some food at the Enoteca 5 Terre wine bar in Monterosso, close to the railway station.

After checking in Monterosso, we headed to Riomaggiore, the first of Cinque Terre, which seamt a bit packed up with tourists, because the Lover's way was closed for strong wind, which might be dangerous for rocks falling.

We had a delicious lunch at Dau Cila Restaurant, overlooking the tiny harbour of Riomaggiore, nested between the railway tunnel and the sea. All seafood was perfectly cooked and fresh, especially the typical anchovies. I learned from my friend Mirko, Frontier Wine tours, that American people do not like them becuase they use to have some big, salty fish which have nothing to do with delicate, small, tasty "Acciughe di Monterosso". Try them marinated or fried or simply with fresh tomato sauce and spaghetti. I definitely recommend this restaurant, not just for food, but also for the quaint position and nice inside setting made as if carved in the rock.

After lunch, we could not stop in Vernazza, as we were told that the Marine is yet closed or less accessible, but i was confirmed that most restaurants there are opening up again in late May. Here you cannot miss:

Belforte Restaurant, right by the sea inside an ancient tower;
Gianni Franzi, in the Marina

As you can see from clouds in the background, this was not the best day to visit the Cinque Terre, but colours and atmosphere was perfect as always. This is a magical place, which never lets you down.
I will soon be back with other friends to share the renovated villages of Vernazza and Monterosso, but also Riomaggiore, Manarola and Corniglia that deserve a visit and some authentic shots!

Bocelli's concert in Lajatico 2012

The most awaited event of the summer, which combines the undisputed talent of Bocelli and his international guest  artists (casting yet to be announced!) with a lovely setting on the Tuscan hills. Two main dates to be marked on you calendar: July 12th for the main event and 11th for the reahearsal. 

The concert will begin right after sunset,  when the hills that surround the Theater of Silence will be painted in dark and the stage light up. Lajatico is a small village near Volterra in the heart of Tuscany, where the Bocelli family owns a farm and produces excellent wines. Before the concert, stop in La Sterza to taste wines from the Bocelli cellars. Entrance will be allowed around one hour before the start. Enjoy panorama of lush green hills of Lajatico by the unique position within the Theatre of Silence and toast with fresh wine and some snacks before the show begins.
There are not many hotels and accommodation in the surroundings which allow one night only reservation. I'd rather chck for a place in nearby villages such as Volterra, but also Latignano, Crespina, Chianni:
Here is a small selection:
Weekly stays: http://www.poggioalcasone.com/
B&B and charme villa  http://www.villamaya.it/
Country B&B http://www.bbpapaveriepapere.it/
B&B http://www.poderelasterza.com/
As for restaurants
La Mangiatoia in Orciatico
Ristoro d'Italia da Nello in Lajatico

We can provide tickets, bookings and excursions on demand, so that you can skip any queue and just enjoy this magnific event!
For more info, also check my previous post on 2010 event.

Yoga and photography in Tuscany

This is a brand new experience to me and I am very excited about working with Vicki and Colomba to this workshop. Colomba has worked extensively as a portrait artist, photograping important figures in contemporary international cultural life and she is practicing yoga as well.At the beginning I thought about yoga as a way to work out, relaxing oneself,  and about photography as the practice of shooting images as an artistic exercise...I have just found out that yoga can be practiced by anyone, at any age, and photography can turn into a creative exercise of self recognition.

Tuscany's landscape can be the link between the two. We'll be staying in a wonderful XVIIth century villa on the hills around Lucca. While staying there and enjoying the charming environment, one will be able to cast the eye of the camera, not simply on art, beauties, people, food...but "dig out" his/her own personal/inner idea of Tuscany.  Restorative yoga classes, self reflection and self study followed by meditation will be the right keys to reach for a "portofolio" to be shared as memory and common representation of the experience. I am curious to see what the outcome of this exercises will be. Bloggers are invited to share info and create awarness on the programme. For further info on the programme, link to: http://www.vickivollmer.com/yogaphoto/index.html

Insider Tips – Exploring Northern Tuscany, Italy

Guest post on Authentic Luxury Travel - Real Experiences For Affluent Travelers with courtesy by Elizabeth Hansen

When travelers think of Tuscany, it’s usually the splendid cities – Florence, Siena, Lucca, and Pisa – and the Chianti region that come to mind. However, things to do and sights to see are also located in the Versilia area of Northern Tuscany – a coastal section stretching from south of Viareggio to beyond Carrara.

This “Insider’s Guide” is courtesy of Serena Giovannoni, who lives in Viareggio, the largest beach town in Tuscany. During the summer, Italians flock to this seaside resort, where they happily pay for beach chairs, umbrellas, and the use of changing rooms.

Serena, a “travel consultant, wedding planner, and personal concierge” provides more information on her website and her blog. >>>>

The Spirit of Carnival in Viareggio

Not many people know that the Carnival of Viareggio is the third most famous in the world after Rio de Janeiro and Venice. With the first one it has in common the great participation of people to the spirit of parades and night folkloristic feasts; with the second it shares the artistic refinement of its paper-machè masterpieces which are admired as true works of arts such as the luxurious masquerades in Venice.

To the people of Viareggio, the Carnival is not just a world famous event, but a “mood”, an emotional state which invades everyone hearts and minds from youngs to adults for about one month before Lent. People participate in the Carnival feeling as if “confetti flawed in her/his veins”. Nobody will care if your still have some sparkling gel on your face or a glimpse of hair colour is yet visible on Monday morning…nobody will care if you are a bit tiered-looking after a Carnival party at “Rione Darsena”[1] because he/she was probably there too!

Short getaway to Rome with kids

When I decided to bring the whole family to Rome for a tour inspection, I had no idea of how it could turn out to be, but I was ready to become overtired.
We departed from Viareggio, Northern Tuscany, about 8am and we decided to go for the state highway Aurelia, instead of the motorway via Florence. The journey was very relaxing, as there is not much traffic and you need a slower pace, but I had not considered that my 7-months-old baby could need a change on the way there and the 4 years old girl might need a break. Well, the only place which can be considered “suitable” for both needs and is also providing a comfy baby changing top is a bar just before the entrance of the Civitavecchia Motorway to Rome. There are many nice places which might be worth a stop, but the one I feel I have to go back sometime in the future is the Etruscan city of Tarquinia. Read on >>>

My post on My Family travels blog: http://www.myfamilytravels.com/

Out-of-beaten-track Tuscany food tours

Our guest post on GotSaga blog

Tuscany is one of the best regions of Italy to go for food tours, both around cities and countryside. If many historical city centres, such as in Florence, Lucca and Siena, yet preserve the traditional artisanal shops and workshops, there are many foody trails in the outdoor areas you cannot miss. Moreover, Tuscany has a wide variety of wine terroirs and many Slow-Food associated typical products, which will make your explorations unique. Here are my five most favourite out-of-beaten-track food tours. >>>

A Day Trip In Pisa At San Rossore Park – Joy For Families

If you are spending a few days in the Versilia area with your family and you are looking for a nice place where your kids can enjoy the open air spaces and nature, you cannot miss Parco di Migliarino and San Rossore Park.

I have spent one day with friends and our children, enjoying ourselves without much worries about possible risks.

The Park entrance is located near Pisa city centre, which makes it also suitable in combination with a short trip to the Leaning Tower.

The entrance is free and, apart from the natural environment, the Park includes the Hippodrome ring, where in winter time horse races are still up and going, and a few historical buildings which were once upon a time, noble dwellings of the King and Princes of Italy.

Most buildings have now been refurbished and hosts different activities, from restaurants to stalls and visitor centres.

>>>

Palio of Siena experience...with kids

My tip on Traveldudes

The Palio of Siena is one of the most famous historical events in Italy and therefore there are loads of information and pictures about it.

What I should try to focus on is the experience of this event from the family’s point of view, i.e. when travelling with kids, especially babies and toddlers. >>>

Versilia, Tuscany

Our guest post on Italy: beyond the obvious blog by Madeline Jhawar

Tuscany is known to most people as the land of sunflowers, poppies, olive groves and beautiful historical cities such as Florence, Siena and Pisa. But few know the magic of a small territory with a microcosm of landscapes, from the silent sea that laps silky sands to towering mountains, that were the cradle to Romans. The vast expanse of natural parks and pine forests were once a hunting ground for the Tuscan nobility; the rolling hills were redesigned by men in neat vineyards and olive groves; and the magical waters of Lake Massaciuccoli inspired Giacomo Puccini, and still attract the rarest species of birds to spend the warmer months.

Located in northwest Tuscany, bordering Liguria and the Cinque Terre, Versilia is nestled between the high Apuan Alps (giving it a mild winter climate) and a long sandy stretch of coast.

The unusual wedding

Guest post on The favour shoppe blog

There are many unusual ways to get married, under the sea with mask and snorkel, in the air jumping off an airplane, but this is not adventurous nor weird, but just an exciting way to share your happiness with people you love.

Tuscany is full of tiny villages where peasants still keep bound to their traditions and history. They are like small atolls scattered all over the luxuriant enchanting countryside, but yet less exotic.

There is a village, called Gualdo, on the hillside of Camaiore in Versilia area, Northern Tuscany, which is better known as the fairytales’ hamlet. It is now inhabited by less than one hundred and fifty souls who strive to preserve its charm, dating back to the XVIIth century, both in terms of environmental setting and cooking traditions.

continue >>>>

Wedding menu in Tuscany

Our Guest post on Charming Italy blog


Choosing the right menu is crucial for the success of a good wedding, as much as for the location of the event. The latter, in fact, should be evocative, in harmony with your style. Tuscany offers beautiful venues indeed, but menus need to be studied in detail according to them, because they mostly characterize your wedding event. Tuscan regional cuisine is rich of culinary tips for your wedding menus, thanks to the great variety of its traditions. >>>

Short getaway to Elba Island with kids

Our guest post on Traveldudes

Elba Island is an enchanting natural paradise just one hour far from the central coast of Tuscany. It is easy to reach via Piombino harbour in a short drive from Leghorn or Pise.

I decided to have a trip there with my daughters, 4 years old and 2 months old, and to experience this charming destination in family friendly arrangements. I chose to stay in Marciana Marina, which is located in the northern part of the isle under the shadow of Mount Capanne, the highest of the island.

This is a cosy village, with a small sheltered harbour where sailing boats circumnavigating the island use to stop for the night. Some houses yet date back to the medieval time and it is very easy to get around its flowered narrow alleys and the harbour promenade, especially if bearing a baby stroller.

Continue reading on Traveldudes >>>>>

Beach Weddings in Tuscany

Our guest post on The Tuscan Magazine

Versilia is the perfect place for a wedding on the beach because its coastline offers a wide variety of bathing establishments equipped with every comfort and service. The setting is unique as the location for a wedding, not only for the stunning backdrop of the Apuan Alps which stands on its background, but also for the beautiful sunsets where the sun dips into the sparkling waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea. This is the perfect time for the couple to declare their love and then relax with their guests and contemplate this spectacle of nature.

Continue reading >>>>

My post about eco-weddings in Italy on Traveling greener blog

Traveling Greener is a blog about green travel news, trends and information.
Here is an excerpt of my guest post on:

Green Destination Weddings In Italy

A green wedding gives the engaged couple the chance to show family and friends their tastes, aspirations and creativity and convey a message of love and respect for nature.

Recently, in Italy, the green wedding trend has become fashionable following the United States and United Kingdom.

Read more >>>>